Valentino: The Art Of Couture

Brand Origins：Valentino's Founding Background 

Tracing the Origins of Valentino

The Valentino brand was founded in 1960 in Rome by designer Valentino Garavani. At the time, Italy was undergoing a fashion renaissance. In the wake of World War II, the Italian economy was recovering, and designers were increasingly breaking away from the dominance of French haute couture to develop their own aesthetic rooted in local culture and craftsmanship. Valentino quickly emerged as a symbol of this new Italian elegance, known for its opulent silhouettes, romantic sensibility, and unwavering devotion to feminine beauty.

The 1950s and 60s marked a golden age for "Made in Italy." This era saw the rise of industrial strength, cultural renewal, and global fascination with Italian cinema, particularly around Cinecittà Studios in Rome. With international stars flocking to Italy, the nation became a glamorous stage for luxury and style. Valentino was born at the perfect intersection of artistry and aspiration—offering women a fashion identity that combined sophistication with theatrical allure.

Central to Valentino’s meteoric rise was his lifelong business partner Giancarlo Giammetti. As co-founder and the brand’s strategic architect, Giammetti provided essential financial and organizational support. His sharp commercial vision shaped Valentino’s operations, from its breakthrough in Paris to global expansion. Their partnership not only balanced creative and business acumen, but also became a textbook example of how dual leadership can elevate a luxury house to enduring global relevance.

Milestones and Key Historical Moments

Valentino’s breakthrough moment came in 1962, when he presented his first full collection at the Pitti Palace in Florence. It was more than just a debut—it was the birth of an icon: Valentino Red. This distinctive hue, a masterful blend of crimson, magenta, and hints of orange, became an instant signature. It was bold yet refined, passionate yet composed. Valentino once said, “Red is the only color that can make a woman feel like she stands out without needing to say a word.” More than just a color, Valentino Red embodied confidence, elegance, and the designer’s ability to balance theatricality with sophistication. It has since become a staple in the house’s haute couture gowns, bridal creations, and visual campaigns—a timeless symbol of the Valentino identity.

By 1967, Valentino received the prestigious Neiman Marcus Fashion Award—often referred to as the “Oscar of fashion.” Joining the ranks of former winners such as Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino’s recognition symbolized the coming-of-age of Italian fashion on the global stage. The accolade fueled his rapid rise in the United States, where his creations became synonymous with Hollywood glamour and the wardrobes of the international elite.

The 1980s solidified Valentino’s stature as a designer for the world’s most powerful women. One of the most iconic moments came in 1986, when Jacqueline Kennedy chose a Valentino ivory lace gown for her wedding to Aristotle Onassis. This gown remains one of the most celebrated pieces in the brand’s archive and reflects Valentino’s enduring appeal among royalty and celebrities alike. Whether gracing the red carpet at Cannes or adorning European royalty, Valentino designs became synonymous with gravitas, grace, and an unmissable presence.

Changes in Creative Direction and Stylistic Shifts at Valentino

Throughout Valentino’s six-decade legacy, the succession of creative directors has charted a timeline of stylistic evolutions, each echoing shifts in cultural attitudes and brand positioning. From the classic opulence of its founder to the poetic modernity of his successors, Valentino’s aesthetic narrative has continuously evolved through the hands of its visionaries.

Valentino Garavani, the founder and enduring soul of the house, helmed the brand from 1960 to his retirement in 2007. Known for his devotion to elegance and femininity, Garavani shaped the brand’s image through meticulous tailoring, sumptuous fabrics, and a sense of timeless grandeur. His signature “Valentino Red” and patronage from icons like Jacqueline Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn cemented his reign as the king of red carpet couture, establishing Valentino as a beacon of sophisticated luxury.

In 2007, the brand entered a brief transitional period under Alessandra Facchinetti. While she sought to modernize Valentino’s codes with a more minimalist, structured sensibility rooted in contemporary womanhood, her tenure was short-lived—lasting only a year—as critics felt a disconnect between her vision and the house’s DNA.

A pivotal shift occurred in 2008 when Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were appointed co-creative directors. Drawing from their background in accessories, the duo infused the brand with a new romanticism—think ethereal tulle, celestial motifs, and nude palettes—blending artisanal craftsmanship with modern femininity. Their tenure marked a successful reimagining of Valentino for a new generation, receiving critical acclaim across couture and ready-to-wear.

In 2016, Chiuri departed for Dior, and Piccioli took full creative control. Over the next eight years, he redefined Valentino with a deeply personal, socially conscious vision. From inclusive casting to bold monochrome statements like “Pink PP,” Piccioli’s work combined emotional depth with cultural relevance. He expanded Valentino’s vocabulary, evolving it from a house of classic glamour into one of powerful contemporary storytelling.

In 2024, Piccioli stepped down, ending an era marked by poetic humanism. His successor, Alessandro Michele—known for his baroque maximalism and eclectic references during his time at Gucci—was named creative director. Michele’s arrival sparked anticipation across the industry: his rich visual lexicon and theatrical sensibility are poised to usher in a new, flamboyant chapter for Valentino, one that may radically redefine the house’s connection to modern luxury.

Design Philosophy and Brand Ethos

Establishing the Brand Language: Timeless Elegance

From the very beginning, Valentino Garavani declared a distinct design vision: “Elegance is more enduring than trendiness.” In an industry driven by speed and the pursuit of novelty, his was a quiet rebellion—a belief in permanence over provocation. For him, the power of fashion lay not in shock, but in stillness; not in shouting, but in grace.

His earliest collections already conveyed this commitment to timelessness. Working with delicate materials such as lace, organza, silk satin, and chiffon, Garavani sculpted soft, flowing silhouettes that carried both refinement and emotional depth. His signature caped gowns, intricately pleated dresses, and sheer overlays caught the eye of the global fashion press during the 1962 Florence haute couture shows. These designs diverged from the dominant French couture codes, favoring an Italian sensibility—less rigid, more romantic, but never lacking in precision or strength.

Material and Detail Aesthetics, Cut and Silhouette

Valentino’s design philosophy has always embraced a kind of “lightness in sculpture”—a poetic tension between classicism and sensuality. From the beginning, Valentino Garavani sought to express emotional depth and silent power through fabric, proportion, and detail. He believed that materials speak, silhouettes tell stories, and details whisper to the soul.

A major source of inspiration lies in the legacy of ancient Rome. Draped silhouettes reminiscent of classical statues—fluid capes, rounded shoulders, and columnar gowns—form the foundation of the brand’s aesthetic. But Garavani’s mastery lies in softening that austerity: chiffon that floats like mist, crepe de chine that hugs yet liberates, and subtle sheerness that respects the body while celebrating it. These constructions are never ornamental—they are architecture worn with ease, invoking dignity over decoration.

Floral motifs, long central to Valentino’s universe, have undergone their own transformation. In early collections, flowers were romantic and literal: embroidered roses, jacquard peonies, beaded petals that bloomed gently across tulle. But in later years, florals became less representational and more architectural. Blooms turned into forms—pleats, folds, spirals—woven directly into structure, mirroring womanhood as layered, complex, and self-possessed. Flowers in Valentino are no longer merely decorative—they are a spiritual emblem.

At the heart of Valentino’s identity is its unmistakable red—“Valentino Red.” First debuted in the 1960s, this crimson hue, between carmine and scarlet, radiates vitality and elegance in equal measure. It is not just a color, but a statement of presence—a bold declaration that femininity is not to be hidden but to be seen. From Jacqueline Kennedy’s wedding dress to countless couture moments on red carpets, Valentino Red has become a cultural code, signaling confidence, beauty, and permanence.

Artistic Collaborations and Crossovers

Valentino has long been synonymous with refined elegance and haute couture craftsmanship. Yet the brand has never confined itself to tradition. Instead, Valentino actively seeks collaborations with artists, streetwear labels, and new cultural figures to expand its aesthetic vocabulary and connect with a younger, global audience.

Valentino and Undercover Discuss the “Dark Fantasy” of Their Collaboration

One standout partnership was with Japanese cult brand UNDERCOVER. This collaboration brought together Pierpaolo Piccioli’s romantic minimalism and Jun Takahashi’s gothic subversion. The result was a hybrid collection merging couture detailing with subcultural motifs—featuring sci-fi prints, anti-war messages, and surrealistic imagery. The project pushed Valentino beyond the red carpet, into a more cerebral, culturally layered fashion conversation.

Valentino and Moncler Joined Forces on a Range of Quilted Down Jackets

Valentino’s involvement in the Moncler Genius project also broke new ground. Reimagining performance down jackets through a couture lens, the collaboration balanced luxury craftsmanship with technical innovation, making functionality feel sculptural and poetic.

In recent years, Valentino has increasingly collaborated with emerging artists, especially from China. Artist Zhang Quan co-created a blue rabbit installation titled “I love you, 兔” inspired by the Locò handbag and Melting Sadness’ signature IP character, seamlessly merging fashion and playfulness. Another notable collaboration was with painter Zhang Zihao, whose two monochromatic portraits—Untitled, 2021—were featured in Valentino’s Collezione Milano: On Canvas, reaffirming the house’s commitment to experimental visual culture.

Valentino teamed up with Chinese artist Zhang Quan to bring ROSSO Red Spring Collection

Valentino teamed up with Chinese painter Zhang Zihao to bring 'Untitled, 2021'

Vans and Valentino Garavani: Exclusive Collaboration Sneakers

Looking ahead, The Fall/Winter 2025 collaboration with Vans, for instance, reimagines skate silhouettes like the Old Skool and Sk8-Hi with Valentino’s high-fashion vernacular. Bold red-and-white contrasts, premium suede-and-leather patchwork, and signature VALENTINO embroidery elevate everyday streetwear into aspirational objects. Rather than a superficial merger, the collection creates a tension between elegance and subculture—an aesthetic negotiation that speaks to the fashion literacy of a new generation.

Retrospective on the Timeless Show Collection

Classic Runway Show

Valentino, a maison renowned for its timeless elegance and innovation, has undergone significant transformations over the years, each creative direction leaving an indelible mark on the fashion world. Let's explore the evolution of Valentino's haute couture collections and highlight standout pieces from the Spring/Summer 2025 collection.

Valentino Spring/Summer 1997 – Valentino Garavani Era

In 1997, under the visionary guidance of founder Valentino Garavani, the Spring/Summer haute couture collection showcased a harmonious blend of classic silhouettes and opulent embellishments. Notable pieces included the "Naomi Abstract Organic Form Sequin Gown," a show-stopping finale look featuring intricate beadwork and a dramatic silhouette. This era epitomized Valentino's commitment to luxurious craftsmanship and timeless design.

Valentino Fall 2010 Couture – Maria Grazia Chiuri & Pierpaolo Picciol

The Fall couture 2010 collection marked a new chapter with Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli at the helm. Their debut collection, titled "The Dark Side of First Love," reimagined Valentino's aesthetic with youthful, doll-like proportions and playful details. Trapeze-line baby doll dresses and coats with bows and lace added a contemporary charm, blending tradition with modernity.

Valentino Spring 2024 Couture – Pierpaolo Piccioli

In 2024, Pierpaolo Piccioli's Spring haute couture collection, "Le Salon," celebrated the female form, emphasizing freedom and individuality. The collection featured minimalist designs with a focus on fluidity and comfort, reflecting a modern approach to femininity. Piccioli's vision continued to honor Valentino's legacy while pushing the boundaries of contemporary couture.

Valentino Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear – Alessandro Michele's Debu

Alessandro Michele launched his first Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection "Pavillon des Folies" at Paris Fashion Week on September 29, 2024. The broken mirror runway in the lobby of the Grand Theatre symbolized the deconstruction and reconstruction of the brand's heritage. He named the theme after the French word "crazy pavilion", integrating dramatic embroidery, floral patterns and vintage lace into daily wearability, continuing his eccentric and romantic aesthetic spirit. The collection boldly uses eye-catching colors such as pink, mustard yellow and classic royal blue, as well as materials such as velvet, silk and flowing chiffon to create romantic tension. The silhouette not only contrasts with wide shoulders and slim waistlines, but also cleverly incorporates sports elements such as twill sweatpants and shirt-style jackets, presenting a modern romance that coexists with casualness and sophistication. Core items such as giant pink bow evening dresses, vintage floral shirt jackets, woven floral handbags and satin cigarette pants have all found a balance between gorgeousness and practicality. The industry's reviews were divided: some called it "a great start of romance and weirdness", while others criticized the show installations as being too dramatic and distracting from the clothes themselves. Regardless of praise or criticism, Michele's debut undoubtedly laid the tone for his innovation at Valentino and opened up a new direction for the brand's future diversified exploration.

Valentino 2025 – Recommended Piece

Valentino 2025 – Recommended Pieces

For those seeking to embrace the avant-garde allure of Valentino's Spring/Summer 2025 collection, consider the following standout pieces:

1. Valentino EMBROIDERED DENIM PANTS

2. Valentino SHORT DRESS IN COTTON AND LINEN

3. Valentino SKIRT IN MUSSOLA APRES L'HIVER MACRO FIORE

4. Valentino LIGHTWEIGHT DENIM SKIRT

5. Valentino LIGHTWEIGHT DENIM SHORTS

6. Valentino FREESDOTS XL CALFSKIN AND CORK SNEAKER

7. Valentino SIGNATURE CALFSKIN FISHERMAN SANDAL 20MM

8. Valentino VALENTINO GARAVANI 9TO5 CANVAS SHOULDER BAG

9. Valentino VALENTINO GARAVANI NELLCOTE SUEDE SHOULDER BAG WITH FRINGES

10. Valentino FLEUR LUMINEUSE NECKLACE IN METAL ENAMEL PEARLS AND FABRIC

11. Valentino LONG-SLEEVED LINED AND COTTON POLO SHIRT WITH VG PATCH

12. Valentino NYLON HOODED WINDBREAKER WITH VLOGO PATCH

13. Valentino VLOGO SIGNATURE KIDSKIN MOCCASIN

14. Valentino UPVILLAGE LOW TOP SNEAKER IN SPLIT LEATHER AND CALFSKIN NAPPA LEATHER

15. Valentino VALENTINO GARAVANI NELLCOTE LARGE EMBROIDERED SHOPPING BAG

Celebrity Style

As a global luxury fashion brand, Valentino's red carpet looks have always attracted much attention. Whether it was the classic Valentino Garavani era or the collaboration between Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino's designs have always attracted many stars with their exquisite craftsmanship and unique aesthetics.

In the 2025 Spring/Summer series, Alessandro Michele's debut brought a new look to Valentino. Lady Gaga wore Valentino clothes at the Grammy Awards, showing her unique stage charm.

Elle Fanning also wore Valentino on multiple occasions, including the 2025 Oscars red carpet and the 2025 Cannes Film Festival.

These stars' Valentino red carpet looks not only show the charm of Valentino's designs, but also reflect the brand's influence in the fashion industry.

REVERSIBLE's Valentino product recommendation

1. Valentino LADYCRUSH SANDAL IN KIDSKIN 85MM

2. Valentino Embellished cape-effect ruffled wool and silk-blend crepe mini dress White

3. Valentino bow-detail Crepe Couture dress

4. Valentino SHORT DRESS IN COTTON AND LINEN

5. Valentino CREPE COUTURE MIDI SKIRT

6. Valentino CRISP TWEED MINI SKORT

7. Valentino Fringed pussy-bow silk-chiffon shirt Peach

8. Valentino Rockstud23 East-West shoulder bag

9. Valentino EMBROIDERED CARRY SECRETS CLUTCH

10. Valentino GARAVANI TAN-GO PLATFORM PUMP IN PATENT LEATHER 155 MM

Iconic Pieces

Rockstud collection

Since its launch, Valentino Garavani's Rockstud collection has quickly become one of the symbols of the brand with its unique rivet design. The collection includes Rockstud Pumps, Slingback, Spike Bag and Slides, which show the elegance of women while maintaining their rebellious personality. For example, Rockstud Pumps has become the first choice of many stars and fashion people with its exquisite design and comfortable wearing feeling.

1. Valentino Garavani ‘rockstud’ Smartphone Holder

2. Valentino Rockstud Boots

3. Valentino ROCKSTUD M-WAY CALFSKIN LOAFER

4. Valentino ROCKSTUD DECOLLETE IN LAMINATED NAPPA WITH CABOCHON AND CRYSTALS 100MM

5. Valentino Garavani Rockstud textured-leather point-toe flats

6. Valentino ROCKSTUD METAL RING WITH SWAROVSKI CRYSTALS

7. Valentino ROCKSTUD PUMP WITH SEQUIN EMBROIDERY AND STRAPS 100MM

8. Valentino Garavani Rockstud Leather Slingback Pumps

9. Valentino ROCKSTUD UNTITLED SNEAKER IN CALFSKIN LEATHER

10. Valentino ROCKSTUD X Sneaker in collaboration with Craig Green

Valentino Red Dress

Valentino's red dress collection, especially the Silk Crepe Couture Gown and Tulle Evening Gown, have become a regular on the red carpet with their exquisite craftsmanship and elegant design. These dresses not only show the brand's ultimate pursuit of details, but also reflect Valentino's unique understanding of female beauty. Whether it is at important occasions such as the Met Gala or the Oscars, Valentino's red dresses always attract a lot of attention.

1. Valentino GEORGETTE MIDI DRESS

2. Valentino CREPE COUTURE SHORT DRESS

3. Valentino Tie-neck feather-trimmed silk-crepe gown Red

4. Valentino VLogo cady gown

5. Valentino CHIFFON LONG DRESS

VLogo collection (Logo item)

The VLogo collection is Valentino's interpretation of modern luxury, including items such as the VLogo Signature Belt, Chain Shoulder Bag and Pearl Earrings. These accessories have become the highlight of daily wear with their simple yet luxurious design. For example, the VLogo Signature Belt has become a favorite of many fashionistas with its unique "V"-shaped metal buckle.

These iconic items of Valentino not only demonstrate the brand's design concept, but also become an important symbol in the fashion industry. Whether it is the classic Rockstud series or the modern VLogo series, Valentino has always led the global fashion trend with its unique design language.

1. Valentino Black VLogo Heels

2. Valentino VLogo Singnature Bracelet

3. Valentino VLogo aquare sunglasses

4. Valentino VLogo SIGNATURE DRIVING SHOE IN CALFSKIN AND TOILE ICONOGRAPHE TECHNICAL FABRIC

5. Valentino VLOGO SIGNATURE BRACELET

6. Valentino VLOGO sneakers

7. Valentino GARAVANI VIVA SUPERSTAR NAPPA LEATHER SHOPPER

8. Valentino GARAVANI VIVA SUPERSTAR SMALL SYNTHETIC RAFFIA SHOPPING BAG

9. Valentino SIGNATURE METAL AND SWAROVSKI CRYSTAL MINAUDIERE

10. Valentino COTTON T-SHIRT WITH CHEZ VALENTINO PRINT

Valentino, the Italian luxury fashion brand, has always adhered to its maximalist aesthetic, blending luxury with artistry to create a unique visual language. Under the leadership of Alessandro Michele, Valentino's 2025 Spring/Summer collection continues to inherit and innovate this aesthetic with its exquisite design and rich details.

However, despite its creative breakthroughs, Valentino faces challenges in financial performance. In 2024, the brand reported a 3% decline in revenue to 1.31 billion euros and a 22% decline in EBITDA to 246 million euros. This decline is mainly attributed to the brand's major transformation in creative direction and the slowdown in the global luxury market. Despite this, Valentino did not compromise its style amid market pressure. The brand maintained its position in the luxury market by strengthening its direct channels and e-commerce. In 2024, direct retail and e-commerce sales increased by 5%, accounting for 70% of total revenue.

Valentino's maximalist aesthetic is particularly valuable in today's era of visual fatigue. The brand continues to occupy a place in the luxury market through exquisite craftsmanship and unique design language. Despite the challenges, Valentino's persistence and innovation have laid a solid foundation for its future development.