Weekly Fashion Highlights | Francesco Risso Exits Marni After Almost 10 Years...

The fashion world is buzzing with news: Francesco Risso is leaving Marni after nearly a decade as creative director. A Central Saint Martins graduate, Risso spent eight years at Prada before leading Marni under OTB. During his time, he brought fresh emotional storytelling, artistic exploration, and bold experiments to the brand. His departure marks the end of an important era that revived Marni with vibrant colors, exciting collaborations, and meaningful cultural conversations. Stay tuned for more updates from REVERSIBLE this week.

Francesco Risso Exits Marni After Almost 10 Years

Francesco Risso is exiting Marni after nine transformative years as creative director. Appointed in 2016 as a relatively unknown figure, Risso succeeded founder Consuelo Castiglioni during a critical moment for the Italian brand. Coming from Prada’s design team, his early appointment was met with skepticism. Yet, over the years, Risso built an unmistakable creative identity for Marni, crafting collections rich in artistic experimentation, emotional resonance, and theatrical flair. Referring to the brand as "a studio, a stage, a dream," Risso turned Marni into a sanctuary for creativity and self-expression.

During his tenure, Risso blurred the line between conceptual art and fashion. From the Fall 2020 collection, which used only fabric scraps and raw seams, to the Fall 2024 show that referenced impasto painting techniques, his work continually pushed material boundaries. His studio often became a blank canvas, covered in white paper to block external influences and foster pure creation. These unorthodox processes were matched by inclusive and emotionally charged presentations, making Marni a cultural platform that defied luxury fashion norms. His whimsical, off-beat designs resonated with a younger audience hungry for expressive individuality in a market dominated by quiet minimalism.

Risso's creative language stood apart from the quiet luxury dominating the industry. With bold colors, expressive silhouettes, and hand-painted fabrics, Risso’s work appealed to a younger audience attuned to authenticity and emotion. Under his guidance, Marni became a brand that welcomed difference and celebrated vulnerability—a living platform for self-expression.

His departure comes amid broader creative shifts within parent company OTB Group, including recent changes at Jil Sander and Maison Margiela. No successor has been named yet. Still, Risso’s journey—from behind-the-scenes designer to visionary leader—exemplifies OTB’s support for bold, unconventional talent. His exit marks the close of a transformative chapter, leaving Marni ready for the next phase of its evolution.

Kering Appoints Luca de Meo As Incoming CEO

On June 16, 2025, French luxury group Kering announced a pivotal leadership shift that could reshape its future. Multiple sources have confirmed that Luca de Meo, 58, currently the CEO of Renault Group, will succeed François-Henri Pinault as Chief Executive Officer of Kering in the coming days. The appointment, interpreted by many as a bold move to reinvigorate the group’s strategy, sent Kering’s stock soaring 8.3% in Paris—its largest single-day gain in over two months.

The leadership transition comes against the backdrop of serious market challenges. Over the past two years, Kering has struggled to keep up with luxury rivals like LVMH and Hermès, especially as its flagship brand Gucci faltered in the Chinese market. Since its peak in August 2021, the company’s value has plummeted by nearly 80%, and its restructuring efforts—ranging from appointing new designers to executive reshuffles—have failed to generate momentum. Earlier this month, Kering abruptly canceled a scheduled analyst meeting, fueling speculation about internal changes. Renault, meanwhile, announced that de Meo would leave his post by mid-July, aligning with the timing of Kering’s expected leadership transition.

De Meo is known for transformative leadership in the automotive sector. He previously held senior roles at Fiat and the Volkswagen Group before taking the helm at Renault in 2020. During his tenure, he implemented aggressive cost-cutting measures, advanced electrification, and restructured Renault’s strained alliance with Nissan. Under his leadership, Renault’s stock doubled, and the company entered strategic partnerships with fashion houses like Agnès B. His cross-industry move into luxury fashion brings hopes that he will infuse Kering’s brand portfolio—including Gucci, Saint Laurent, and Bottega Veneta—with a renewed sense of discipline and innovation. With Pinault remaining as Chairman and ceding day-to-day control to de Meo, Kering signals a shift toward more distributed governance. Whether de Meo can translate his past successes into a revival for Gucci remains to be seen, but the appointment undeniably marks a new chapter for the group and its flagship label.

Moncler Genius x Donald Glover 2025 New Collaboration Collection Debuts

The "Gilga Farm" collection, jointly launched by Moncler Genius and multi-disciplinary artist Donald Glover, was released simultaneously around the world on June 18, 2025. Inspired by the creative farm in Ojai, California, the collection successfully integrates rural nature with urban functionality, leading a new trend in outdoor fashion this summer.

The theme of the series comes from Gilga Farm, a private creative farm run by Glover in Southern California. The bright colors of the orange country orchards serve as the main inspiration, echoing the summer sunshine and natural atmosphere. Glover said: "Functionality is key, this is what Gilga and Moncler pursue together. We all design for real practicality." This joint collaboration selects lightweight technical down, breathable nylon, and composite suede stitching, taking into account the daily needs of windproof warmth and urban commuting. In addition, some items use natural fibers derived from orange trees, allowing the natural elements of Gilga Farm to be "carried with you." The "N" logo and the customized "Gilga Farm" badge on the side are embossed alternately, with exquisite details, showing the cross-border dialogue between the brand and the artist.

Moncler held an internal preview at its Rodeo Drive boutique in Los Angeles. The venue was decorated as an orange grove oasis, which complemented the pastoral atmosphere of Gilga Farm and attracted fashion media and skateboarding experts to participate in the experience. Along with the release of the series, the official launched an animated short film, in which the Mon duck mascot was transformed into a farmer, and the dream narrative was impressive. This collaboration marks another breakthrough in the functional and cultural expression of the Moncler Genius series. Glover's diverse creativity and the brand's innovative craftsmanship have achieved a perfect match. The entire series has been sold in limited quantities on the Moncler official website and designated retail outlets. Consumers can participate in the lottery through the Moncler App to bring an ultimate summer experience that emphasizes both art and functionality.

Louis Vuitton Becomes New Partner Of Real Madrid

Parisian fashion house Louis Vuitton has announced a multi-year partnership with La Liga giants Real Madrid, becoming the club’s official luxury partner. The partnership includes formal wear and travel dress collections for Real Madrid’s men’s and women’s football and basketball teams, further expanding LV’s presence in the sports arena. The Formal Wear and Formal Travel Wear collections were created by Pharrell Williams, LV’s creative director for men, combining French haute couture with a sporting aesthetic. Details include VVN leather labels, gold RM badges, and Monogram luggage; the boxes are also engraved with the players’ names and the club’s logo, but the collection is not available to the public.

“We share the same values of excellence and innovation as Real Madrid, and this partnership will inspire new inspiration for both parties,” said Pietro Beccari, CEO of Louis Vuitton. Emilio Butragueño, the club’s sporting director, also stressed that this cross-border alliance will further consolidate the club’s global influence. The collaboration comes as Real Madrid travels to the United States for the FIFA Club World Cup, adding a touch of elegance to the team’s global itinerary. Louis Vuitton has previously cooperated with top events such as the America's Cup and the Paris Olympics. This time, it joins hands with football giants, which heralds a new trend of continued deep integration between luxury brands and the sports industry.

Zara Owner Inditex Q1 Sales Slow But Accelerates Premium Retail Strategy

On June 12, 2025, Inditex—the world’s largest apparel retailer and parent company of Zara—released its Q1 earnings, revealing a marked slowdown in growth compared to the post-pandemic surge. For the quarter ending April 30, sales rose just 1.5% year-over-year to €8.3 billion ($9.5 billion), or 4.2% in constant currency terms and 5.3% excluding the leap-year impact. While still positive, the figure falls far short of the 15%-plus annual gains the company posted in 2022 and 2023. From May 1 to June 9, sales climbed 6% YoY, slightly underperforming last year’s early summer season. The company’s stock dropped by as much as 6.4% on the Madrid exchange. 

Despite the economic headwinds, Inditex remains committed to its long-term transformation strategy, which prioritizes flagship innovation, brand elevation, and experiential retail. Since Marta Ortega took over as chairwoman in April 2022, the company has increased investment in its physical stores and upscale offerings. In Q1 2025, Inditex opened stores in 26 markets, with notable new locations in Athens’ Minion district, CambridgeSide in Boston, Noon Square in Seoul, and Via Roma in Turin. In March, it launched a new Asian flagship in Nanjing, designed by AIM Architecture, featuring distinctive sawtooth brickwork and integrated lifestyle zones, drawing over 100,000 visitors on opening day. At the same time, Zara launched “Travel Mode” in the UK, Italy, and Japan, offering temporary delivery options and curated travel guides. Expansion to Spain, France, and Turkey is underway.

Meanwhile, other Inditex brands are expanding their presence in high-traffic areas: Massimo Dutti and Pull&Bear on Oxford Street in London, Oysho in Paris’s Madeleine district, and Zara Home in San Sebastian. As of Q1 2025, the company operated 5,562 stores across 26 markets. The company plans to invest €1.8 billion this year in store and tech upgrades, plus an additional €900 million to bolster its logistics network. While quarterly figures suggest decelerated growth, Inditex’s deep-rooted restructuring, operational refinements, and brand transformation reflect its resolve to reinforce long-term leadership in fast fashion.

Editor: Juham Lin, Di Su.